To watch the full show go to Altuzarra f/w 2012
Joseph Altuzarra, who started his company only three years ago, was born in Paris, his mother is Chinese-American and his father is French-Basque. He worked both with American and French designers. This multicultural background makes for a new type of designer: one that is in synch with European savoir-faire and with American practicality. Sharp and exquisite tailoring is one of his trademarks, as well as a powerful sexiness. Not surprisingly, he admires Tom Ford in his Gucci years. He won the CFDA-Vogue Fashion Fund in 2011. Carine Roitfeld put him on the map in 2009 by wearing one of his coats.
Most designers create their collection thinking of a story they want to tell. This is a way of making more clear to the audience what their message is.
Altuzarra’s collection is a reflection of his main character, Corto Maltese, a sailor who travels to faraway and exotic land. He creates this collection mixing several references completely disparate, achieving a very cohesive and modern whole. The strength of Altuzarra lies in that the garments don’t look costumy, they look luxurious and relaxed at the same time. The outfits are put together creating a collection that is fresh, young and new.
These are the body shapes that remain throughout the collection.
Altuzarra’s trademark silhouette was inspired by Carine Roitfeld. Her look is a constant feature in his collections. The designer keeps this shape season after season.
Mix & Match
This is a singular way to develop a collection. The designer works with the inspirations defining specific garments and deails. Those are then combined in different ways throuout the collection creating a cohesive result.
Corto Maltese Military & Morocco Rugs
Morocco details & French Style Belle de Jour tailoring
Indian embroideries & Corto Maltese Military
1) Morocco & Berber Crafts:
2) Corto Maltese Adventures:
Corto Maltese is the main character of an adult french comic book from the sixties and seventies. His mother was a gypsy and his father a british sailor, and his adventures took him to many exotic destinations. He was a stylized dandy wearing peacoats with exaggerated collars and elongated sailor pants. The designer added to this look, jodhpur pants and boots with tassels, for a general military feel.
3) Belle de Jour — Parisian Chic:
Belle de Jour (1967, directed by Luis Buñuel) is a French film starring Catherine Deneuve. She plays Séverine, a bourgeois housewife unable to commit sexually to her husband. Instead she fulfils her sadomasochistic fantasies by becoming a prostitute during the day. All the actress’s clothes were designed by Yves Saint Laurent. The most iconic dress in the film is the black dress with a prim white collar and white cuffs. Her look is sexy but constrained.
4) The Lambani Embroidery:
Lambanis, elsewhere known as “Banjaras”, are semi-nomadic people who reside mostly in Southern and Middle India. The Lambani women practice a unique mirror and embroidery craft, which they mostly use for making their own traditional dresses or for giving to their daughters for their weddings.It is very unique with its combination of darning, cross stitch, mirror work, and because of the natural dyeing and printing. Tassels made of brightly coloured acrylic wool, square and round mirrors, bells, metal buttons, coins and cowrie shells embellish the lambani outfit.