Proenza Schouler F/W 2012 — Review
To watch the full show go to Proenza Schouler f/w 2012
Most designers create their collection thinking of a story they want to tell. This is a way of making more clear to the audience what is their message.
Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack Mc Collough were inspired by Martial Arts original from China and Japan, such as Karate uniforms and samurai amours. The challenge was to transform this uniforms, rather basic and masculine, into young, cool, and sexy ready-to-wear outfits.
These are the body shapes that remain throughout the collection.
Inspiration & References
1) Protection Uniforms: the designers explored the idea of protection through martial arts. We can see this influence in the padded details, tie closures, asymmetry, quilting and oversized silhouettes.
… is a martial art developed in the Ryukyu Islands in what is now Okinawa, Japan. Karate is a striking art using punching, kicking, knee and elbow strikes. The philosophy is “to purge oneself of selfish and evil thoughts. For only with a clear mind and conscience can the practitioner understand the knowledge which he receives.” “…one should be “inwardly humble and outwardly gentle. Only by behaving humbly can one be open to Karate’s many lessons.”
… meaning “Way of The Sword”, is a modern Japanese martial art of sword-fighting based on traditional swordsmanship which originated with the samurai class of feudal Japan.It’s a physically and mentally challenging activity that combines strong martial arts values with sport-like physical elements. Kendo training is quite noisy because kendo uses a shout to express their fighting spirit when striking.
Cheongsam / Qipao
… When the Manchu ruled China during the Qing Dynasty, women typically wore a one-piece dress that retrospectively came to be known as the qípáo, also called “cheongsam”. The qipao fitted loosely and hung straight down the body. Under the dynastic laws after 1636, most Han Chinese were forced to wear qipao instead of traditional Han Chinese clothing, under penalty of death. The modern version, which is now recognized popularly in China, was first developed in Shanghai in the 1920s. Women transformed the old qipao to suit their tastes. Slender and form-fitting with a high cut. It was high-class courtesans and celebrities that would make these redesigned qipao popular at that time.
2) Buthan Handicrafts: colorful barket weaving inspired the leather textures and the color palette creating amazing fabrications.
… is native to Japan and China. Kudzu is a vine that when left uncontrolled will eventually grow over almost any fixed object in its proximity including other vegetation. Kudzu it’s easy to find in Bhutan and it has long been used for basketry. Most communities sell this crafts to sustain their families.
3) Street style: sweatshirts and Varsity Jackets.
Proenza’s modern image and fresh originality is usually achieved including street-style or sportswear garments to the collection. The Varsity jackets and oversized sweatshirts treated with traditional crafts and unexpected fabrics are a strong statement.
These are the main outfits that can sum-up the collection. All the other outfits are inspired by them. The designer plays with these silhouettes, colors, materials, treatments and construction to develop the full collection. This is the way designers reinforce the proposal for the season.
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