To watch the full show go to YSL F/W 2011 / Campaign video
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Created in 1966, the Le Smoking tuxedo suit for women was the first to be inherited in popular culture. He empowered women installing the use of suits and the pantsuit in modern-day society. This style was first photographed by Helmut Newton in shoots that feature androgynous models with slicked-back hair and masculine attitude. Also worn by many actresses like Catherine Deneuve and Bianca Jagger.
In the collection we can see a clear influence of priests and nuns attire. The clear cuts and no embellishment reflecting an elegant austerity is a clear statement for this season.
The clerical collar is subtly referenced if we observe the height, shape and stiffness of the blouses and jackets collars.
The color palette is influenced by religious black and white habits, adding a dash of purple hue that represents a high religious hierarchy or even royalty.
These are the outfit silhouettes that remain throughout the collection.
These are the 4 main outfits that can sum-up the collection. The designer plays with these silhouettes, colors, materials, treatments and construction to develop the full collection. This is the way in which designers reinforce the proposal for the season.
These shows how an idea is developed by the designer. For eg. below, he re-designs the tuxedo created in 1966 by YSL.